Most visitors begin their tour of Bulgaria in the beautiful, history-rich capital of Sofia, a 2,200-year-old city. Sofia is so rich in history that Roman ruins are part of a downtown mall, and the fourth-century St. George Rotunda (which also served as a Roman bath and a mosque) is located behind the courtyard of the Sofia Balkan Palace hotel. Mount Vitosha can often be seen from downtown.
Plan on three nights to one week in Sofia, making certain that one is a Sunday—Sofia's church choirs shouldn't be missed. If possible, attend services at splendid Alexander Nevsky Memorial Church (easily recognized by its 12 gilded domes). Even if you're unable to attend services, be sure to visit the cathedral to examine its beautiful carved marble, friezes and icons (the basement houses a magnificent icon museum).
The main sights of the city are centrally located and easily seen on foot, though it would take at least two days to see it all. An alternative is to take the local streetcars—they offer an easy and cheap way around the city (an excellent street map, showing bus and trolley routes, is available from tourist offices).
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