The major city on the Coral Coast, located 275 mi/440 km southeast of Nairobi, Mombasa, Kenya, has been a trading center for centuries—Persians, Turks, Indians, Portuguese and the British have all left their marks. Ancient mosques, forts, museums and temples abound. Parts of the city have a North African feel: You'll find narrow roads, bazaars and cafes playing Arab music. Visit 16th-century Fort Jesus at the southern entrance to the harbor—once the stronghold of the Portuguese and now an interesting museum. Mombasa is good for shopping, especially for the brightly colored kikois that local women wear and for wood carvings (the carved animals, made in the nearby cooperatives, are especially nice—you can also see the craftspeople at work).
A real must in Mombasa is the Tamarind Dhow trip around Tudor Creek for the fine views of Mombasa Old Town and Fort Jesus—a seafood lunch or dinner is served on board. We think watching the sunset while eating lobster and listening to Swahili music is a very special experience. The trip can be booked by phone from almost any hotel.
About 20 mi/30 km south of town is a long stretch (6 mi/10 km) of beautiful white sand known as Diani Beach. Unfortunately, the beachfront is fairly developed and covered with aggressive souvenir salespeople, but on the reef offshore there's good snorkeling (and no vendors). If you truly want to escape the crowds (and running water isn't that important to you), head for Wasini Island—with no resorts, cars or developments to speak of, this is one of the most tranquil spots on the coast. The best way to explore is on a day trip by dhow from the south-coast hotels. This excursion includes lunch at Wasini Island's famous Charlie Claw's restaurant, which has been serving fantastic crab and seafood lunches since 1978.
Plan at least one week on the beach around Mombasa and combine it with a visit to one of the closer national parks such as Tsavo or Amboseli.
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